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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
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This page answers
questions we often encounter in talking to our customers. Of course, we can't anticipate all your
questions here, but we'll be glad to answer your unique concerns in person, by phone, or by e-mail.
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- Shouldn't I go back to my dealer? That's where I bought my car.
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Your dealer may not be your best choice for collision repair. Many of the highest-quality
facilities in the area aren't affiliated with dealers. Your dealer generally has no unique edge in
terms of technology, techniques, or parts availability when it comes to repairing your vehicle
after a collision.
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Not all dealers are bad, by any means, but some tend to emphasize numbers above quality. You
can sometimes feel lost in the shuffle. Quality control and personal attention can sometimes be
difficult for the big dealer shop, as 30 or 40 repairs are juggled simultaneously.
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Rather than automatically returning to your dealer for collision repairs, we encourage you to
be a careful shopper when selecting a repair facility. Ask your friends, neighbors, and relatives
about the experiences they have had with collision repair, and select the shop you think will
provide the highest quality result.
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Is it hard to match my paint?
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Yes, it might be, but a high-quality repair facility will take the steps necessary to ensure
your satisfaction with the match. Here's how paint-matching works, in a nutshell:
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Your vehicle carries a paint code, frequently on a label or plate under the hood, in a door
jamb, or in the trunk. This manufacturer's code specifically identifies the color of your car.
Paint manufacturers have devised paint-mixing formulae that are used by the repair shop to mix
paint which matches the manufacturer's code. (Be skeptical if a repair shop doesn't mix their
paints in-store.) This can work just fine if your vehicle is precisely the color specified by the
paint code. In actual vehicle production, there is variability within many paint codes, frequently
from paint lot to paint lot, or between factories.
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If your vehicle isn't exactly the color specified by the factory, the first step in
paint-matching is tinting, varying the amount of the components in the formula. Frequently this
gives excellent results.
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Sometimes, a perfect match can't be obtained by tinting alone. In these cases, blending
techniques are used with the best tinted color. The last little bit of variance is made invisible
by painting portions of the vehicle adjacent to the repaired areas so the color changes
unnoticeably. This can make the difference between a very good match and a completely invisible
repair.
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Proper paint-matching requires a high level of skill and sometimes a great deal of patience. Be
sure you select a repair facility that will take the time to produce a match in the perfect range
and will not be satisfied with merely good results.
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Will you use "putty" to repair my vehicle?
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Maybe, but modern plastic filler is a much different product than "bondo" from
years back. It is a durable medium that's great for finish and feather-edging work. A quality
repair facility won't use filler until the underlying metal is properly repaired. Ten years ago,
putty earned a bad reputation. It didn't provide long-lasting repairs. The world has changed a lot
since then.
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Modern (high-quality) filler is very stable. It doesn't shrink or crack and is a great
sub-strata for primers and paint finishes. Used appropriately, it is part of many high-quality
repairs.
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My insurance estimate lists Quality Replacement Parts (or rechromed parts or remanufactured
parts or recycled parts or used parts). Are they as good as new factory parts?
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Maybe not.
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We all want a cost-effective repair. The insurance company would prefer to repair the car for
less money rather than more money. The repair shop and the vehicle owner don't want to waste the
insurance company's money because it will drive premiums up. If a high-quality repair can be done
for less money, everyone is better off.
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Given that, high-quality shops won't do anything to make the vehicle owner, their customer,
worse off merely to save the insurance company money. If the "other" part is inferior in
any way, your repair shop should compel the insurance company to use the original manufacturer's
part. In the end, the vehicle must be in the same condition it was before the accident occurred.
Any other result is unacceptable.
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Your estimate is higher than the one the insurance company wrote. Will I have to pay the
difference if I want to bring my car to you for repair?
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No, not normally. The insurance company is obligated to return your vehicle to its pre-accident
condition, and they are willing to pay for a correct repair. The way modern vehicles are
constructed, it's often difficult to see all the damage on their first inspection. Insurance
company adjusters typically include only visible damage in their estimates. Suspected, even
strongly suspected, damage is normally omitted.
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When your vehicle is disassembled for repair, additional damage is frequently discovered. A
good-quality repair shop needs to point out this additional damage to the insurance company and
make arrangements for the company to pay for the additional repairs required.
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It's just this simple - your repair shop has an obligation to you to make your vehicle every
bit as nice as it was before the collision occurred. They have an obligation to themselves to
compel the insurance company to pay them properly for necessary repairs. Your repair shop needs to
be willing to handle all the negotiations required to make this happen.
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You are responsible for your deductible, if you have one, payable to the repair shop at the
completion of repairs. The insurance company is responsible for all repair expenses above your
deductible. It costs you no more to choose the repair facility that provides the highest quality
repairs.
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Can you save me (some of) my deductible?
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An honest repair shop will always say "no." Here's why:
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Your insurance policy is a contract between you and your insurance carrier. It basically says
that if you have a collision loss, you are responsible for the first portion of repairs (your
deductible) and the insurance company will pay all the rest. If we do fewer repairs than agreed
with the insurance company, you're still responsible for the initial amount, your deductible. Any
reduction should correctly go back to the insurance company.
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There are legitimate ways to reduce your cost, like appearance allowances. Consult your
insurance company.
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Be wary of the repair shop that offers to save you your deductible. There must be a reason they
are willing to involve themselves in violating your insurance contract. Consider what their
reason(s) might be.
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The insurance company wants to give me a check to repair my vehicle. Should I take it?
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Sure. The insurance company is responsible for restoring your vehicle to its pre-accident
condition. If there is additional damage, a good-quality repair shop should be able to negotiate
for additional compensation. You surrender none of your rights by accepting a preliminary payment.
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Do you have loaners?
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A high-quality shop will say "no" and then offer to arrange a convenient rental
vehicle if you require one.
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It costs $20-30 a day to provide a loaner, considering the cost of the vehicle and necessary
insurance. If the repair shop can absorb this cost, they have to recover it somewhere. Are they
cutting corners on your repair, charging for work not performed? ...Beware the free loaner.
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Will you paint my refrigerator (or kitchen door or electric guitar?)
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Perhaps! Let us know what you want done. We'd be more then happy to work with you.
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Executive Auto Body, Inc.
has offered information and opinion on this page. We are not
insurance attorneys; we have acquired experience based on our daily contact with insurance companies.
Do not rely on this information as legal advice. For legal advice, consult your attorney.
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